- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is pretty sweet. The route starts off with slabby fingers and thin hands then progressively harder moves leaving the slab up to the "bird hole" and up the flared hand crack - cool movement. The route finishes up on a couple of bulges that are slightly harder than you would think. This has really nice face climbing with a few jams that is somewhat atypical for Vedauwoo. Perhaps it is a little harder for shorter folks..??...
Grade wise, there isn't much to compare this to in Vedauwoo. It felt harder than
Currey's Diagonal
but not as hard as
Da Gyps Route
. It is just as good as those by the way. This is a very nice climb.
I did an enormous amount of cleaning on this, especially on holds that are crucial. It is in prime condition currently. If this has been done, I would guess it was a long time ago. It seems odd that such a nice line would go unreported....?.... (best I can tell anyway).
Location
This is the first route to the right of Big Wednesday/Aluminum Overcast roof. The route ends at the right side of the Aluminum Overcast roof.
Protection
A single set of cams (#0.4-#3 BD), small to medium-sized nuts, and a couple of subfinger-sized cams. There is a 2 bolt anchor with fat hangers (courtesy of Will Mayo, I believe). It is quite safe with the only grey area being in the middle of the pitch where the gear can get in the way of your fingerlocks and may not quite be as straightforward as one would like.
Routes in Old Easy
- 13Unknown5.10cTrad