- Edit (TBD)
Description
Somewhat high first bolt which can be alleviated with a nut and/or cam behind the flake. Climb the thin crack with stemming and odd holds up to the clip. Rails on the left face will make for occasional breaks in the otherwise tenuous stemming. The crack eventually seams out and the holds get small just before you arrive at a midway ledge. Pad your way delicately through the loose crumbliness and trend slightly right to join
Kingpin
. Balance your way up this section to a final minor crux to a ledge. The last section is easy but unprotected to a nice ledge and hardy anchor.
Location
Find the fir tree on the wall about 40' up. Bolted line left of this. Straight up to a chain anchor on a ledge at 90'.
Protection
8 bolts, cams from 0.5-1" (0-3 Metolius or equivalent), 2 bolt chain anchor
Routes in West Face
- 2Time Bandits5.10-Trad