We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Little Leopold

FA Laeger, Leversee, Harold Seiden 7/86
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A pretty sweet, mostly crack route. Definitely recommended if you're looking to do some crack climbing at Courtright.

Climbs the huge, obvious flake on the left side of the dome. Approaches it by traversing in from the obvious roof. The Grand Inquisitor approaches the flake directly by, apparently, 5.11 face climbing. I'm not sure which route claims the flake as its own.

P1: Climb the dirty crack/seam to the roof. The route's crux is probably on this pitch. There is some face climbing in between cracks that was a little scary. Set up a hanging belay under the roof. 5.10 100ft.

P2: Undercling traverse left/down under the roof for 30 feet and set up a belay before transitioning into the flake. 5.10 30ft.

P3: Make a tricky move to gain the huge flake. Lay it back/stem for a long ways until it turns into a nice handcrack. Then it really starts curving right and gets easy/dirty. Keep following until you get to a nice little ledge to sit down on. 5.9 120ft.

P4: Head up the cool corner for a little bit and choose an escape route. We broke out right and climbed a nice little handcrack to the summit slabs. 5.8 100+ft.

Easy walk off climber's left.

Location

4th class up to the ledge directly below the roof. First pitch crack/seam leads to the "down pointing crest" of the roof.

Protection

Single rack with at least 2 #3s, 1 #4, and 1 #5 (C4s) is probably a good idea for the flake. Extra .5 for the roof traverse.


Routes in Leopold Dome


  1. 1
    Little Leopold
    5.10c
    Alpine · Trad