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Moby Dick Center
Description
While it starts with a powerful, thin and technical finger crack, most of your time will be spent with the widening fist crack above. For those with small hands, the upper section will be off-width, but for those with larger hands, enjoy! The crux is right off the ground and pro is thin early on. Watch you ankles falling right off the ground: the base is littered with rocks.
Location
On the west side of El Cap, about 100 yards up the hill (left, facing the cliff) from the toe of the Southeast Buttress (start of The Nose).
Look for a small clearing at the base just to the left of a large dihedral with a gaping off-width crack ("Ahab" 5.10b). The climb starts up a thin finger crack, then widens on the otherwise blank face above
Protection
One or two small pieces for the beginning, and a bunch of big ones (#2-#5 Camalots) for the widening upper section.
nuts: 1 set thin-med.; cams: 1 ea 0.5"-4.5", extra 2.5"-3.5"
Two ropes to rappel. A single 80m barely reaches, too.
Routes in Moby Dick and Pterodactyl Terrace
- 3Moby Dick Center5.10aTrad