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Peak Mountain 3

Flying Dutchman

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Description

Delicate and burly at the same time. The crux is exactly where you think it will be, the face above has good, sharp horizontals, and then there is a final throw to the top.

I've seen two different strategies used successfully: ease up the flare, and power layback.

Location

At the East end of the Frigate, facing the Lake, a flared slot through an overhang leads to a slabby face.

Protection

Good gear through the crux, then nothing on the face above (5.8-5.6). Is there gear in the last ledge before the final crux?

For setting a TR, you can either solo up the chimney (4th class from the South), or jump down across the gaps from the Frigate walk-up. Great gear under the block and one big cam across the chimney makes a strong, easy, stable anchor.