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Peak Mountain 3

Evening Ecstacy

FA Clint Dillard & Partner, 2004. (?)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

An unreadable plaque lies at the base of this climb because someone decided to scratch out the name and over-write it with the words "Bad Bolt."

THe bottom bolt of the anchor is indeed bad (refer to note on Protection) and should probably be replaced with a 1/2" in the same hole. The problem with this scribble job is that all you can read is gibbersh, so you don't know he name of the route or that there is a bad bolt until you come down and having already learned that, can decipher the plaque.

At the far left side of the lighter wall just left of Tofu Crack there are 3 climbs, Mouse Meat, a 140' tall 5.10+ crack route, then an unnamed 5.10 left-facing Flake, then this route, which ascends a crack system just at the left edge of the wall. Start up in one crack and just when it runs out, move left 5' into a different crack. The transition is the crux and can be protected well on a few cams on either side.

This is a reasonable warm-up route for the wall but is not typical of indian creek- the rock is a little softer and lighter and there are more holds and less pure crack climbing.

Location

This climb is the last climb left of Tofu Crack in the lighter-colored wall, just before turning left around the corner past a tree to the base of the huge, left-facing "Two Timer" dihedral.

Protection

A set of cams to hand-sized with a few large nuts or extra large finger sizes. (EDIT): The once-loose lower bolt, (owing to its poor placement) on this anchor has reportedly been repaired and beefed up.