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Peak Mountain 3

Mental Health Project

FA Pat Rinehart, Jason Moncreiff
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is one of the best moderate routes around! I remember climbing it in the late 90s, thinking it was a great 5.7 since you could clip bolts between gear placements. Unbeknownst to me at the time, the whole area was just being developed. The route seems 5.8, not at all 5.9 as listed in the first edition guidebook. For all the moderate rock climbers out there, this one is GOOD. It is long, and for the most part great rock.

From the tree, follow the easy corner up and left to the first bolt. Continue working up the beautiful slab, laced with step-up ledges and finger cracks to the 2-bolt/chain anchors at the top. Bring some cams (we used 2 small pieces) to fill in the gaps between the well-placed bolts.

Location

The route is located up and right from the top of the approach 'trail', and found by scrambling 15' up a well-worn approach to the large spruce tree.

Protection

8 or so bolts, supplemented easily with cams.

A 70m or double rope rap is needed to get all the way down with some very easy down climbing for about 10ft. Or, do as others before and rap to the ledge, then rap to the ground off the first bolt.....

new two bolt anchor on 3/13/2018, Still no two bolt anchor above the tree. Drugs are bad m'kay!