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Peak Mountain 3

Penile Decay

FA Steve Elder
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is the free version of the old aid route, Soft Space. Pitch 1 (5.8): From the uphill saddle climb up obvious wide crack system using some bolts and larger sized cams for protection. The crux is located just below the belay ledge. Mind some loose blocks on the pitch. 80' Pitch 2 (5.11d): Launch up the overhanging head wall, on good holds but with big reaches, to a rest at the arete. Continue up and right through several crux sections with more big reaches and some smaller holds. Follow the bolts up and finish the final very runout 5.7 section to the summit. The old aid bolts on this pitch have been replaced by Tyler Adams with solid modern bolts. They are still in exactly the same positions as the old bolts, so you will likely be skipping some on free lead. 130' of super pumpy climbing.

The first pitch is rather forgettable, the second pitch is totally awesome.

Location

Start at uphill saddle

Protection

Pitch 1, selection of cams .7"-3" and nuts, some bolts at top. Pitch 2, 20 bolts


Routes in Horse Rock Pillar


  1. 1
    Penile Decay
    5.11d
    Trad