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There might not be an 11d move on Free Tibet, but there aren't any 10d moves either...at least for the first 40 feet! The climbing is sustained, technical, and excellent. In my opinion, this route might be the best 5.11 sport climb in Durango.
A highball first clip might necessitate a stick clip or, in our case, a very long stick and some climbing tape. Take care getting to the first bolt, some of the hardest moves on the route are below the clip.
Catch a must needed rest at the halfway point and be patient for the jug run that awaits the last bit. A varied, awesome route!
Location
Climbs the right of two major arete formations. Start below a steep roof and then stays right of the arete.
Protection
7 bolts.
Routes in Headbanger's Wall
- 13Free Tibet5.11cSport