The Regular Route (Castle Rock Spire)

The route originally went @ 5.8 A2 or so. The first free ascent went down in 83 By Dick Levarsee and Rob Raker(11b). From the notch there are variations to make the start harder.The rt starts on the se side of the spire. The first coupla pitches go moderately. (we linked em) The third pitch is a tunnel through (behind the Dark Tower), and down to the crux pitch (beautiful corner/roof 5.11+ or so) More moderate climbing brings you to the topout offwidth...and awesome views!

The first ascent of each season might experience some dirt filled cracks and a little lichen. Due to a legendary rough approach, this area sees little traffic. Be prepared for an adventure. As of now, this rt. has seen less than 60 ascents. One guidebook says "the burliest approach in the Sierras"....another says "May the force be with you" while explaining the approach. It could be said that the approach is half the battle. Expect poison oak, snakes, and miles of not so obvious "trails".

The route eats up gear of all types up to 4". There are some fixed pieces for anchors, but bring extra slings and/or stoppers to back up any questionable gear. You will have to rappel the rt.Two ropes can minimize the amount of raps.