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Peak Mountain 3

Rectum Roof

FA FTR: John Vawter & Mark Thorpe 1973 FL: Werner Landry 1975.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start by climbing up to a thin ledge then up past two bolts to a horizontal crack under a small roof. Traverse five feet left, using the horizontal crack till you reach a vertical crack that enters the roof overhead; this is the crux. Pull the roof and jam your way to the top till you reach a bolted anchor. This route should protect well, but the leader should be comfortable with the grade. A toprope can be set up on this route to work out the moves.

Location

This climb is located on the Main Wall Center; Upper Tier Routes. Continue up past the Gallwas Crack to another ledge and gain purchase on top of a large boulder; should be able to see the two bolts at this point.

Protection

This is a mixed lead that requires small gear up to three inches and also protects with two bolts. There are also bolted anchors at the top for rappelling and toproping. Double length slings will do the trick for a TR.