"Southern Revival" South Face of Oak Creek Spire

Southern Revival climbs the grand dihedral system on the South Face of Oak Creek Spire. Stunning positioning, steep and sustained climbing, and challenging difficulties potentially make Southern Revival the hardest, free standing summit route in Sedona. An obvious system of steep cracks will take climbers through striking corners, demanding boulder problems and puckering ooh-aahh exposure.

Historical and FA information: Correct historical information of previous attempts at the South Face dihedrals is mostly unknown. Tim Toula’s “A Cheap Way to Die” identifies a Michael Lawson (aid?) route that was started in the South Dihedrals, and ascended two pitches, unfinished to top. M.Lawson denied any involvement and found no information in his notes on the mystery astronauts. On early attempts five self-drive recalled Leeper bolts were found and removed on the first pitch. One, “anchor bolt”, sporting homemade rap steel, came out voluntarily by hand! Necessary protection bolts were modernized; two rusty dinosaurs remain for the hilarity of historical purpose. Five days of exploration and equipping were necessary before a complete team free effort.

P1 Remind yourself where you are and begin up the not so ghetto Indian Creek splitter in a striking dihedral. As the seas widen, clip two modern bolts and chim-stem your way to a two bolt anchor on the surf board. Ride gently and don’t clip the recalled leepers! 100’ 5.10

P2 Move up through obligatory OW, through a series of short and steep boulder problems, and into the left splitter of New Jersey Flake. Climb steep thin hands and fingers, find your sequence and move into a steep fist crack before finding a bolted anchor. 85’ 5.11

P3 Climb steep, thinning hands to fingers in an arching dihedral. Guano friction is high. Exit the steep roof as a cowboy and mantle into the Tanning Salon. Wow Pitch! 5.11+ 70’ -Possible to Rappel back to ground with (2)70M-

P4 Move belay left (#.3-#3 C4). From the Tanning Bed climb up fingers and thin hands to a pod below a small roof. Clip a bolt, lycra up and get sporty! Traverse right and move into varied cracks and spooky holds. Move left onto a ledge below the mini-splitter. Optional Belay ( #.75-#2). Climb mini-splitter and move right, clip a bolt and climb unlikely grip tape holds to an airy mantle. Avoid a 1000lb rope, many runners! 105’ 5.12 -Possible to escape right and rappel into the East Chim bowling alley. Keep yer dome bucket covered! Anchors are relic. (1)70m-

P5 Initiate JB Honorary Traverse. Make exposed moves down and to a blocky stance. Move west through curious features on great rock. From a small ledge move down into a delicate traverse on psychedelic rock. Tingly position. 3 bolts 85’ 5.9

P6 Move up through thin hands and varied features. Electric slide left and move into a tricky wide hands bulge. Pull onto the Peyote block and squabble up through the gargoyles. A Sedona textbook finale. 115’ 5.10

Approach as you would for Oak Creek Spire. Southern Revival starts in the recognizable dihedrals on the South Face of Oak Creek Spire. Follow a good trail below the South Face and hike up a slip and slide to the right of a scree field. Route will be evident.

Descent: Rappel the standard route of the North Face. It is possible to rappel with a single 70m with the use the intermediate slung webbing anchor. Use caution! From base of N. Face descend east along a faint climbers trail and back to the South Face of O.C.S.

#0 Green C3 x1 #1 Red C3 x1 Doubles: #.3-#4 C4 Runners, Q.Draws 70M