Under My Thumb

P1(5.10-): Work up a ramp to a steep chert face with engaging chert knobs.  Gain a small ledge and continue up another exciting steep chert face to chain anchors and a small stance.

P2(5.10):  Step across a left leaning right facing corner. Move up a couple bolts and head up right to a very obvious 2 foot overlap feature. Pull the overlap on chert holds and continue on thin holds to the right side of a flake and make a couple burly lieback movest to bigger holds.  Follow bigger holds to the next bolt.  After the lieback, it is slightly runout to the next bolt but the climbing eases up and is on big holds.  Climb some amazing chert holds to finish at the chain anchors just below the rim of the wall.

Note:

P2 shares two bolts with Cross Faded and Cross Faded takes the

left

bolt line through the overlap and Under My Thumb takes the

right

bolt line.

30 feet right of See of Joy. Look for the name tag on the first bolt.

P1:  12 bolts; P2:  8 bolts.  Due to rope drag, it is strongly recommended to climb as two pitches.  The top of the second pitch has chain anchors but to avoid an uncomfortable hanging belay, it is recommended to

not

lower back to the belay anchors at the top of P1 of Under My Thumb and instead the leader should lower to one of two chain anchors on the big comfortable party ledge (P1 anchors for either Cross Faded or Don't Fear the Reaper).  The second can then clean the pitch, thread the anchors and lower to the party ledge.  From there, it is a short rappel back to the alcove with a single rope.

Note:

It is possible to lower from the P1 anchors with a 60 meter rope - it just makes it.  Knot the end of the rope on the belayers end.