Gandalf's Grip

This stunning line is one of the longest and best climbs at Broughton. The climb is on the north face, facing the Columbia river and can be seen from highway 84.

It is usually done in 3 pitches but can be done as one pitch with a 60m rope if long runners are used.

Pitch 1: 5.9 The climb starts up a steep crack and then angles left onto the face through a few bolts. Continue up through a small roof (crux) and onto an angled ledge and a 3 bolt belay.

Pitch 2: 5.8 Continue up a right facing dihedral until it angles to the right and forms a small stance.

Pitch 3: 5.7 The last pitch goes up a wide and sometimes dirty chimney. Belay off a tree at the top.

Walk off to the left (east) or rap -1 rap with 2 60m ropes or. . . -2 raps down route

A regular rack of doubles to #3 camalot with one optional larger piece for the last pitch is recommended as well as a few quickdraws and double length slings