- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is the right-facing corner just left of
Spectreman
. It is an attractive line, if you climb the grade you'll want to climb it. This gets a 5.11c grade in the Kelman book and an intimidating 5.12b PG-13 in the Orenczak book; quite a discrepancy. I figured I'd give it a go and find out for myself, the gear is a bit tricky, but it protects well and has a sustained crux that keeps you fully engaged for a few body-lengths. It is no gimme and has fun movement.
As to the grade discrepancy, .11c seems a little mean sitting right next to
Spectreman
, but there's no way this is .12b, or PG-13 rated. In all fairness, I'd reckon
Spectreman
is .11a and Repoman deserves a stout .11+.
Location
Just left of
Spectreman
, it is the alluring, right-facing corner.
Protection
C3s, Aliens, and Camalots to #1. There are two sets of anchors, it's obvious which one is more modern.
Routes in The Heap
- 8Repoman5.11+Trad