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Peak Mountain 3

Loopy After Dark

FA Cody Nichols, Kennedy Quigg July 10, 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

‘Loopy After Dark’ climbs the obvious crack in a corner on the most northern set of exposed cliffs at Payne lake. There are opportunities for other routes of varying styles, both at this wall and others on the paddle up, though rock quality isn’t the best.

Start in the center of the left facing corner, climb up through a few small terraces. From here, a series of stemming moves passing small gear brings you up to a slanted ledge with crumbly rock and tricky gear placements. Step right and follow the slightly overhanging hand crack to the top. Watch out for loose rock if topping out. 

Location

As it stands, it’s really not worth paddling all the way to these last set of cliffs since this is really the only route to be done and most of the rock in this location isn’t that great in general. However, if you are feeling adventurous and have done everything in the left gully, then this is a nice mini-adventure to take a few hours or so and go do. You also get to check out all of what Payne Lake has to offer on the way down which is worth the paddle alone.Last visible set of cliffs viewed from the launch. Paddle north towards the island and beach your boat on the western shore in front of the giant boulder. Scramble up to the base of the cliff from there. 'Loopy after dark' is the obvious left facing corner with a crack in it. If setting a TR, approaching the top from climbers left is easiest. 

Protection

Standard rack, small cams are useful for the first half. Long static if setting a TR. Rappel from trees.