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Peak Mountain 3

Middle Passage

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Description

Very fun climbing, similar holds and movement to all the other neighboring routes. This one is distinguished by a crux moving through a bulge in the middle of the route followed by tricky, balancey climbing through a corner pulling onto the orange/tan upper face. A knee bar as you emerge from the corner can be helpful.

Very cool to climb on two distinct rock types on this route with the finish being straight up face climbing on a crack/flake feature and the lower part being tricky 3d and body positioning intensive climbing on wavy slopers.

Location

This climb shares a start with Abandonings. Look for the clean finger crack set back in a right facing corner/dihedral. Takes finger sized gear, or you can free solo this ~25 ft section of 5.7ish corner crack climbing. After climbing this corner, you will come to an anchor featuring two huge, tan hangers. This climb takes the line of bolts to the left of that anchor.

Book says to finish on Stones in the Pathway's anchors, but it makes more sense to finish right, on the anchor for Abandonings. Optional ~.5 cam for this finish.

Protection

8 bolts, optional single rack to .5