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Peak Mountain 3

Jake Direct

FA Ray Jacquot, 1970s
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The second pitch of

Walt's Wall Route

consists of a right-trending, low-5th Class ramp. Midway along the ramp, there were 2 chopped bolts on the wall to the left. The leftmost bolt was replaced in 2012, which restores protection for an alternate 5.7 start to Jake's Variation (5.5). The bolt was replaced with the approval of the first ascenionist.

The route description is simple. Climb the first pitch of

Walt's Wall Route

. Start up the ramp on the second pitch, go left to the bolt, clip it, and move a foot or so sharply left and then head up to the first bolt on Jake's Variation, and finish on that route.

Comments: starting on

Friction Slide

and finishing on Jake Direct makes a fun, two-pitch 5.8 climb. Another variation leads to a 3-pitch 5.8 climb. Climb

Friction Slide

belaying near the end of the first pitch of

Walt's Wall Route

. Move the belay about 50 feet right to the base of

5.7 Cracks

(dotted line in Beta Photo). Climb it, and finish on Jake Direct. Warning: combining

Friction Slide

and Jake Direct into one pitch creates a lot of rope drag.

Protection

3 quickdraws.