We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Beatle Brow Bulge

FA: Jim McCarthy, Matt Hale, Jim Alt, 1966. FFA: John Stannard, Henry Barber, 1973.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The initial overhang on this route is much more imposing than the word "bulge" suggests, but "Beatle Brow Roof" lacks poetry. Either way, it's a great pitch. Historically rated 5.9+, the latest version of the Williams guide calls it 10-, which I think is accurate considering the sustained overhanging climbing above the roof.

Climb easy rock up to the roof, passing a vertically-placed pin about halfway up the face. Climb through the well-protected roof at a short left-facing corner/flake, and then straight up the overhanging face above on good holds. (Be aware that Blueberry Wine, a 5.11, goes through the roof at a similar looking left-facing corner a few feet to the right of BBB.)

Above the overhanging section is a ledge at which the angle eases and the rock becomes dirtier. To rappel using a single 60, go to a bolted station off to climber's right.

There is a second pitch to the top, of lesser quality and difficulty, which angles up right to a left-facing corner.

Location

The access trail for Beatle Brow Bulge is about an 8-min. walk from the Uberfall, or a 4-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. At the cliff, head uphill to the right, past the huge right-facing corner of Asphodel.

Begin about 70 feet right of Asphodel, where the trail levels off.

Protection

Standard rack.