Kingsnake

This route starts out overhanging and then eases considerably after you gain the ledge above the crux. The crux is low on the route in the overhanging section and involves strong moves between somewhat large holds with some awesome body positioning given the location of the useable footholds. It may also be possible to traverse in low from the right via a horizontal crack. This steep climbing low on the route is pumpy and very fun. Once you're on the ledge above the low crux continue up on large huecos then either make a short traverse left out of the steeper section (easier), or directly up out of the cavelike steep section on huecos and crimps (harder). Continue up on good pockets around fragile flakes and knobs. The rock is pretty amazingly featured. Be careful not to pull off the fragile features; there are plenty of solid pinches and dishes to climb on around them. Be careful of snagging the rope on the many chickenheads and flakes and be ready to flip the rope free of the them. Also, be attentive of rockfall since many of the features are fragile and can break. The belayer should wear a helmet.

Once at the Newt Wall hike up to the top from the right (east) of the wall and set up a toprope on the anchors farthest to the west (climber's left). The route starts on overhanging terrain to the left (west) of the mouth of a deep cave at the wall's base and heads up a steep portion to the right of the heavily pocketed roof. It travels left of the very large dish near the top of the wall. When finished hike down.

Toprope, 2 bolt anchor (no rappel rings)