- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a long pitch that features lots of chickenheads, especially high up on the headwall. Although there are a few bomber gear placements down low, this line was bolted to be entirely sport and to be reasonably protected for the grade (hence the name). It has lots of bolts -- approximately 15 or 16 to eliminate potential ledgefalls.
A funky start leads to a short, moderate section which then gains a steep crack/seam. Crank through here (crux?), then make the diagonal traverse up and left to the headwall. Climb the headwall on great chickenheads to an anchor just shy of the top (unfortunately the rock at the top was no good for bolts). The climb is longer than it is tall due to its diagonal nature.
Note: a 70 meter rope will get you down, just watch your ends. Or belay up top then rap to the intermediate anchor down and right on Chicken Little.
Location
It is the leftmost bolted line on the Shadetree Ledge.
Protection
Bolts.