- Edit (TBD)
Description
Pitch 1: Climb fractured rock up to a small roof, then follow a hand crack to a two bolt anchor on a ledge. 5.7, 90 feet
Pitch 2: Climb easy terrain to a steep, clean slab with a finger crack. Avoid the bushes at the bottom of the crack, then climb straight up to a two bolt belay at the base of the huge right facing corner. 5.9-, 90 feet
Pitch 3: Start by climbing the face to the left, then trend back into the crack. follow the corner to another two bolt belay beneath the large yellow roof. 5.6, 90 feet
Pitch 4: Climb the face to the left, aiming for the lip of the roof. Turn the roof and climb easy crack and slab to the top of the formation. Belay at a two bolt anchor. 5.6, 90 feet
Pitches one and two or two and three can be linked with a 60 m rope. I would not recommend linking three into four, as the rope drag would be heinous.
Descent: Rappel the route (all belays are bolted for rappeling) with a 60 meter rope. Make sure your rope is running clean for the first rappel, as there is some friction when you go to pull it. The other three rappels are clean and easy. All bolts and hangers are stainless steel. I would recommend using this route as a descent for "Out of the Blue" so as to avoid the shooting gallery walk off descent. To actually get off the ledge at the base of the wall, walk south til you enter the top of the approach gully. We scrambled down slabs and ledges until we were able to start walking (about where the chimney is that you climb to access the big ledge).
Location
Starts about 75 feet left of "Out of the Blue". Identify a slab on the left side of an arching roof. This is the first pitch. Scramble up some third class terrain from the main ledge to another ledge system to access the slab.
Protection
Single rack from 0 C3 to 3 C4. Possibly double up on 0.5 to 1 C4.