- Edit (TBD)
Description
If you're over 170 lbs, this route might be impossible! You're warned! Please, don't get Piggy Pinched. This route climbs the corner system just left of the obvious laser-cut, lightning bolt splitter crack (already climbed, no further known information; looks phenomenal!).
Pitch 1:
Begin up a tight hand crack to a ledge. Then finesse through a short, wide section to another ledge. Turn right and enter a chimney. A fun hand crack in the chimney leads to a nice belay stance at a squarish notch.
5.10, 105 feet.
Pitch 2:
Stem or climb out of the square notch to a thought-provoking finger sequence. Climb upward through a widening crack. Either OW battle or stem the widest section. Good pods make the length of this pitch barely tolerable. Finish up a smooth, surprisingly tricky wide section into a neat cave. This pitch is a fantastic, long blue-collar pitch.
5.11, 160 feet.
Pitch 3:
Ramble up the cave and squeeze through a crack in the ceiling of the cave. Super fun! I'm 155 lbs with and it was fairly tight. It MIGHT be possible to continue through the cave latterly and crawl through a ratshit-filled tube and exit in the middle of the mesa. I would venture a person over 200lbs probably wouldn't make that crawl.
5.9, 40 feet.
Use a double rope rappel from the top of the laser-cut crack (2 pins) to a ledge. These pins are located southwest (~50 feet) from the top of Piggy Pincher. A single 70M rope rappel from the ledge (anchored via large block) then reaches the ground.
Location
West Face of Carousel Butte.
Protection
Double set from fingers to BD C4 #3. Triples BD C4 #4-6.