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Peak Mountain 3

Robbins Crack

FA Royal Robbins and Ted Wilson
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Description

The offwidth crack on the west side of the Thumb. It is a great option to gain the summit if you don't mind grinding a knee or two. I wouldn't claim this to be a true offwidth, as there are many hand jams on the pitch. The original rating of this route was 5.10. I think Royal may have short arms and couldn't get the jams.

Location

On the West side of the actual Thumb spire.

Protection

You do NOT need to lug huge cams to do this pitch. You can climb this safely with the same rack you used to get to the base of the pitch. Two or Three #3 camalots would be nice and a #4 or larger camalot would be convenient if you really wanted to sew it up.