Broken Toe (Walk On The Wildside Variation)

This is the face climbing variation to "Walk On The Wildside". Start at the same unmistakable right trending crack. The crack jams real well and feels easy 5.7. A few feet before the arete there will be slanted horizontals above you at which point you'll start going straight up. Have faith climbing the face as unique for New England "eyebrow" cracks appear exactly where you need them. Place pro carefully about 1/2 way up the face as the eyebrow cracks are just flared enough to make placement tricky. Good pro can be had 4 feet above the tricky placement. I cleaned the exit crack pretty well so it is a straight 5.6 move and not a manky, dirty, scary mantle move on rock with lichen. To make it even more mellow, you can place pro to protect the top out.

This is on Andy's Cliff - it's the cliff below the porcupine cliff - as you follow the red dot trail past the main cliff towards southeast for about 250 or so yards, you'll see the trail split into 3(?) trails, take the right most one (white square I think) - you can kinda see the crag at this point and go another 50 yards to the base of the cliff. It's the lower one - the upper one is Porcupine cliff.

Have faith that there's pro as you go up the face. I used BD .3 up to a 2 - there is a placement for a 3 also if in the middle if you bring it. The eyebrow cracks do flare so please be mindful of your placements.