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Peak Mountain 3

Will Power Tower

FA Assumed FA of Route:
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1 (5.8) - Starting at the lowest point on the formation, find a short crack and flake at the top of a small boulder. After this short crack is a blocky 5.4 section followed by a 5.8 crack. Belay from either the large boulder or the manzanita.

P2 (5.8 R) - From the belay, head up and left through some blocky 5.6 cracks to an airy step across a chimney. With only a few tiny nuts as protection from a nasty whip, commit to crossing the chimney and follow the obvious twin cracks that head left. Traverse a crack to a manzanita bush that you can hand-over-hand yourself across with poor feet, (Watch out for ants, they bite!), to a ledge with a tree to belay from.

P3 (5.0 C0) - From the tree climb up the easy 5.0 dihedral/slab to a large boulder. Climb around the back of the boulder without placing pro and then when on top of the boulder, flick the rope around to the front side of the boulder to reduce rope drag. From here climb the obvious hand/fist crack to the saddle between the two main summit bocks. We aided this section at C0, but it would likely go free around 5.10 or 5.11. We found a bong (large piton) placed in this final crack which means we were not the first to attempt the final crack. The piton was easy to remove with my hands though, which begs the question if someone actually got it stuck or simply bailed off of it. If anyone knows where it came from, I would love to know.

From the saddle between the two summit blocks, scrambling onto the climbers right block is easy, although it is the shorter of the two blocks. It appeared that with a couple of bolts, a climb from the saddle onto the taller block could be protected. Otherwise, to gain the true summit, one would likely have to do more traversing around the spire to a crack on the far side.

Descent: From the saddle, scramble around to the right to some cord we left tied around a constriction between the middle and far right summit blocks. One short rappel brings you to a big ledge on the south side of the spire. From there, find the Manzanita with webbing and do a double 70m rappel to the ground. One could also likely do a single rope rappel to the notch to the north but this would require walking all the way around the East side of the spire to get back to the base.

Location

Find the obvious crack/flared chimney with a large flake at the left side of it on top of a boulder at the lowest part of the spire formation.

Protection

Gear to four inches.


Routes in The Totem Pole


  1. 1
    Will Power Tower
    5.8
    Trad · Aid