- Edit (TBD)
Description
When this route was first being established, we were dodging storms and Stormy Daniels was all over the news. Stormy doesn't fit with most people's usual ideas about what heroism looks like, but she showed a lot of bravery and grit. Likewise, this route doesn't fit with most people's usual ideas about a high-quality rock climb- it is short, often seeping, and was originally climbed as an eliminate. However, the route offers super high-quality movement involving technical lie-backing up a shallow dihedral, and is a welcome addition to the stock of 5.10+/5.11- climbing at the Bluff.
As an eliminate that totally avoids the large flake of Way Knarly (see beta photo) the difficulty is around 5.11a/b. Using the flake beginning around the third bolt, the difficulty is around 10d.
It would be possible to extend this line to the anchors of Way Knarly, but the rock is of lower quality and often wet above the two-bolt anchor at approximately 30 feet.
Location
This route is located between Eggs and Darts and Way Knarly. Begin in a shallow right-facing dihedral, and continue past three bolts to a two bolt anchor. It will be natural to use the large flake around the third bolt, but this lowers the difficulty to around 10d.
Protection
Three bolts, two bolt anchor.
Routes in New Vice Area
- 7Stormy Daniels5.11a/bSport