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Peak Mountain 3

11+ Face

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Description

A sheer, thin, desperate face climb over a bad landing. Pull into the dish and then crank hard on nothing, searching for friction. Quite height and temperature dependent.

This is a historically significant problem for Santee. Evidently it was quite popular in the 70's and 80's as it was featured in a number of bouldering competition showdowns. Funny how classics from B.I.T.D. slip into obscurity. According to John Vawter, this was the tiebreaker problem in the finals of the 1973 bouldering contest. None of the seven finalists topped it, but an unknown local kid who was tied for first got the highest, and thus won the rope.

In either 1981 or 1982, Tony Yaniro and Santee local Doug "Moony" Munoz were having a tiebreaker on the Aid Crack (Synchronicity). When neither sent, the 11+ face became the new tiebreaker, and Moony topped it first.

If this looks difficult and dangerous now, try it without sticky rubber and only a carpet square to catch your fall!

Location

On the southeast corner of Offwidth Rock. The best way to reach this problem is to walk counter-clockwise from the Offwidth Problem around the back of the formation and go through the boulder field. Trying to go clockwise or approaching from the south will require navigating dense, overgrown brush.

Protection

Very bad landing on jagged blocks of uneven height; if bouldering, you'll want multiple pads to even it out and most likely a spotter. You might be able to climb the 5.9 offwidth and borrow its bolts for a TR.


Routes in Offwidth Rock