- Edit (TBD)
Description
An old-school, adventurous romp with surprisingly good rock/protection** following weaknesses up an impressive wall. I think with some traffic and the right attitude, this might be a 3 star route! You may find the 5.7+ rating in the guidebook to be a tiddly bit old-fashioned.P1 | 5.8 |100': Boulder onto the low angle ramp 15' right of the ugly corner. Work left, heading for a small tree above an overhang. Pull the overhang (crux). Post crux, there are some appliance sized blocks that don't look very attached. Skirt underneath these to the right, step over them, and belay on a large ledge (save a #1 for the belay).P2 | 5.7 | 100': move right off the belay 5 or 10ish feet and head up lichen covered jugs, eventually climbing just right of a gully/crack. You basically end up heading straight up, towards the large hole which you tunnel through (awesome!). Emerge from the tunnel, gingerly tip-toe up some flakes (mental crux) and setup a belay. ** The flakes felt way more solid than they looked but it would be really bad if they became dislodged. I was happy to be seconding this section.P3 | 5.9 | 70': Look over at the Orifice wantonly, question why you're not clipping perma-draws, and head up obvious crack system. Gear belay in the large notch at the top of the Fortress. Pretty dang fun. P2/P3 link okay with careful slinging.
Location
This route is more on the East face of the Fortress. Walk beneath, and just past the Orifice into a large alcove with a really gross looking R Facing corner with a crack in it. Start in the corner (yuck!) or 10-15' to the right up a ramp. The route is by itself, a ways uphill from Clipalot and the other SE face routes.Squeezing the Lemmon 3 has a nice overhead that's helpful.
Protection
wires (large helpful), 1x .2-#3, 2x 0.4 - #1. Many slings, including double lengths
Routes in Southeast Face
- 20Inner Passage5.9Trad