Pill Head

Excellent moves and phenomenal rock quality out the roof. Conditions really help on this one, or just be strong.

The opening jug dunking of this route may be some of the best in Wonderland. Surf up a blocky corner feature to the second bolt: here, a big move begins the crux sequence. Continue through tension-dependent moves before pulling a neat exit maneuver to the fifth bolt for a good rest. Take your time to somehow regain max power and prepare for a superb final roof boulder with a seriously heartbreaking final move. Don't worry if you blow it, you're in the majority.

Painkillers might help treat a sore ego but sending is the cure!

Just right of Pawn Promotion. This is the first route that climbs out the mega roof. Look for a big undercut lip in the roof.

7 bolts, 1 chain + anchors