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Peak Mountain 3

Whipping Post

FA Dave Crawford & Bill DeMallie, about 1990
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This interesting route is located uphill (south) of

Boys With Power Toys

, and downhill of

Undertow

. Find a leftward traversing line of bolts down low on the pitch and you're there.

After scrambling up the 4th class terrain to the base of the steep wall, clip the first bolt and traverse left past the first 3 bolts. This traverse is a little pumpy but no harder than 5.11.

The crux section begins in getting up to and past the 4th bolt. This section is thin and crimpy, and fairly sustained for 15 feet or so. Feels a bit stiff for its 11d rating. Once getting up to the 5th bolt, interesting face climbing involving very thin feet and smearing, and a mantle or two takes you to the top of the pitch. This upper section is probably no harder than 10b or 10c but it somehow gets your attention in spite of being much easier than the crux.

Protection

Bring draws for 8 bolts plus a 2-bolt anchor.