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Peak Mountain 3

Fools Gold

FA AH?
CREATED May 2023
UPDATED May 2023

Description

Fools Gold climbs the splitter on the face of the tower away from the wall. Climb up crumbly lighter rock with a thin ass crack to a roof bulge where the rock & gear improves greatly. Climb the slightly off vertical thin crack through the sizes to a wide pod and pull up onto the ledge and climb the last 15ft shared with Chimney Route protected by a lone drilled angle.

I opted to bring a bit more gear to lead this route with the potential choss factor. I doubt this splitter has eva peeped an ascent wit tha amount of sand n' loose shiznit I was able to clean out. The bottom is poor rock quality but the upper varnished section is better, I cleaned most of what I could on lead and then rapping back off so it's ready to go, rip a lap, fun one.

Location

Face splitter on Pyrite Tower. Just follow the green painted trail to yer destiny.

Protection

A blue and/or orange TCU will protect moves up to the roof.

A medium chock for the roof, I brought a #2 UFO (OG Czech gear for that soft rock you know?)

Off fingers - big hands. (.75-#3) Doubles in hand/big hand sizes

A big piece or two for the pod it will fit a new #5 and or 6.


Routes in Pyrite Tower


  1. 2
    Fools Gold
    5.10
    Trad
1000 km
500 mi