- Edit (TBD)
Description
Fools Gold climbs the splitter on the face of the tower away from the wall. Climb up crumbly lighter rock with a thin ass crack to a roof bulge where the rock & gear improves greatly. Climb the slightly off vertical thin crack through the sizes to a wide pod and pull up onto the ledge and climb the last 15ft shared with Chimney Route protected by a lone drilled angle.
I opted to bring a bit more gear to lead this route with the potential choss factor. I doubt this splitter has eva peeped an ascent wit tha amount of sand n' loose shiznit I was able to clean out. The bottom is poor rock quality but the upper varnished section is better, I cleaned most of what I could on lead and then rapping back off so it's ready to go, rip a lap, fun one.
Location
Face splitter on Pyrite Tower. Just follow the green painted trail to yer destiny.
Protection
A blue and/or orange TCU will protect moves up to the roof.
A medium chock for the roof, I brought a #2 UFO (OG Czech gear for that soft rock you know?)
Off fingers - big hands. (.75-#3) Doubles in hand/big hand sizes
A big piece or two for the pod it will fit a new #5 and or 6.