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Peak Mountain 3

Golden Staircase

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Description

Golden Staircase is a somewhat contrived but really fine moderate toprope problem going up the arete or buttress formed by the right side of the Green Bucket-Desperation overhang. Start on the face just left of 'The Crack' and climb using neither the Crack or the corner to your left straight up until it is possible to traverse 15 feet above to the left side of the buttress. Climb the small face holds straight up until one can layback right onto the buttress underneath 'Desperation' on the obvious flakes which keep breaking off until one can mantle a big leaning shelf near the top. The way is partially revealed by the 'golden' lichen giving the climb its name.

Variations can be had by continuously trending right onto the steep face above 'The Crack' without touching the crack, and going up that face to the top of golden staircase. Several 5.8-5.9 problems will be discovered.

Location

Start on the very small piece of face just left of 'The Crack'.

Protection

top rope


Routes in Hades Heights


  1. 18
    Golden Staircase
    5.7+
    Tr