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Peak Mountain 3

Dig Scoop Kaboom

FA Sam Latone & Derek DeBruin (portions earlier with Billyjack Cundiff, Ryan Little)
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Description

If you prefer, download a PDF of this beta here:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T559JyirsIM-sgCLk9_8eZcvmJTF6DgY/view?usp=sharing

500ft of mostly good climbing on mostly good rock. Given the history of climbing in Ogden, I'm reticent to claim first ascents, so this is simply how we did this line. It's an amalgamation of a number of individual pitches/variations I've climbed over the last several years, whether solo or with partners, summer or winter. Ultimately, I think the climb as described is the best and most continuous option and how I'll do it in the future. Pitch lengths are approximate.

P1: 5.8+ 35m

Head up the right trending bushy ramp, breaking straight up at a compact face to the left of some overhanging boulders on the ledge above. Move up and right past the boulders to the right side of the hand/fist crack below the roof. Climb up the left leaning crack and pull the lip on #3/#4 camalot size pieces. Climb up a short distance and belay at an alcove.

P2: 5.5 35m

Step right out of the alcove and ramble up the broken terrain above. Trend right on angling ramps, passing by a small tree. Belay on the large ledge below the base of the start of the steep pitches on the "Jagged Edge."

P3: 5.6 35m

Move around to the left/north/shady side of the prow and ramble up into a corner/ramp. As this closes down, traverse left into another low-angle right-facing corner. Surmount the ledge and belay in horizontals.

P4: 5.8 25m

Climb up left off the belay to avoid loose rock to the right. A few meters above the belay, traverse back right on a ledge, stopping at the base of a hand crack in a bulge. Up the hand crack, clearing the bulge as it turns to fists. Continue following the crack up less than vertical terrain into a right facing corner. Place a solid directional or two in the overhang atop the corner, step left around the overhang, and move up just a bit to belay at the base of a right facing corner.

P5: 5.8 15m

Walk left across the ledge and angle up to the slot above. Move through the slot and continue into the gully, stepping right onto the summit slabs. Belay on hand sized pieces. Continue from here on 3rd/4th class to the summit.

Descent

Descend as for the "Jagged Edge."

Location

Approach as per the "Jagged Edge" but continue up the scree/talus until it ends. From here head up a bit more on dirty slabs, past the start for "Limey Ridge" but before "Santa Baby," "Bird Shit Crazy," etc. Start on the left side of the slabs near the base of a bushy ramp below a left angling hand/fist crack under a roof.

Protection

Singles to #4, doubles fingers to hands.

About 8 runners.

A 40m rope does the job.


Routes in Jump Off Canyon