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Peak Mountain 3

South by Southwest

FA Walt Shipley & Keith Reynolds, 7/93
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The climb shares the first two pitches (5.6, 5.4) with Regular Route. P3: Then instead going right on the Main Ledge, continue straight up a shallow corner, pass some pins (5.9), pass a bulge (10d) to a baley before right facing corner. P4. Climb straight up the corner to a roof, traverse under the roof, and over to a stance (11a), then a bit higher to a good stance (5.8). P5: a 5.9 pitch leads to the top. There is also a 10a variation if you break left at the very top. Enjoy the view of the valley and el cap! (nota bene: the 11 pitch is more like the 'old school' 10. So this may be a good climb to break into the grade.)

Location

Start the same as Regular Route.

Protection

Extra hand size pieces helpful.