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Peak Mountain 3

Village Idiot

FA Todd Offenbacher, Zach Fletcher
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

WARNING: This route is just long enough to lower your partner with a 60 meter rope. Mind your positioning as belayer (stand close to the wall) and TIE A STOPPER KNOT to avoid the end of the rope slipping through the belay device and dropping your partner as they lower near the bottom.

The rock here is mostly good, but are a few loose blocks; test holds before trusting them and yell "ROCK" "like someone's gonna die" if anything comes down. Even quarter size rocks seem like they've come out of a slingshot when they fall off Village Wall because of its length and angle.

Easiest climb on this wall. Starts vertical but miraculously juggy. Transitions to a somewhat dirty 5.5 "hike," then comes up a more interesting, generously protected face climb. Stay on the face, follow the bolt line, and look for your next move for a fun and easy line; straying Left at the crux provides an easier, less exciting variation to the finish. Lower off.

Location

There are three routes on the immediately accessible section of Village Wall. This is the middle route.

Protection

Nicely protected. 12 bolts. Mussy hooks at the anchor.