I Love a Cigar

Most parties do the first three bolted pitches (10+,10b,10b), which are fantastic, rapping station to station before the crux roof fist crack on the fourth pitch. If you are inclined to take several #4-5 cams up here, it's fun to go all the way up. The 5th pitch checks in at 10b protected by all draws.

Per

Doug Haller

: P1. Scramble 20-30 feet up the right side of the two flakes to gain a small pointed ledge. Look for the first bolt about 20 feet up followed by a second bolt a body length higher and near a small flake/roof. Follow a line of bolts up and through the peak of the "A" shaped roof/overlap. Pull the overlap, and continue to the obvious ledge with two cold-shuts as anchors, 10 bolts, 100 feet.

P2. Locate the line of bolts trending up and left. Climb up and left along the bolt line using a faint but large dike in the rock for foot and hand holds As the route trends to the blunt arette, climb up and over a bulge to sight the anchors, 10 bolts.

P3. Pitch 3 pulls through two overlaps. From the anchors, climb steep slab to gain crack holds below the first overlap. The third bolt is out of sight but atop the edge of the overlap. Make a long reach and high step to gain a stance above the overlap. The second overlap is surmounted along a rail. Keep your focus to reach the anchors as the climbing is continuous.

Rap

Riders in the Sky

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Start up the face on a very large flake leaning against the wall, almost in the center of the main wall. It is about 70-80 feet left of

Riders in the Sky

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Per

Doug Haller

: locate pitch 1 by looking for two large flakes at the base of the crag below a "A" shaped roof/overlap. The outer flake stands upright while the inner rests against the main wall. Both flakes are about 20 feet x 30 feet. Only the second bolt can be seen from the ground.

Pitches 1-3: 14 draws. Pitch 4: gear to 5 inches. 2 60m ropes are necessary for the descent raps.