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Peak Mountain 3

Betty and Ray's Adventure

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Description

This three pitch route is located on the Upper Tower and climbs the right side of the arête. The climb itself wanders a bit and generally follows the line of least resistance to the summit (many variations are possible). Most of this route is in the shadows during the evening.

P1. Climb a steep dihedral directly across from Dovercourt. From the top of the dihedral, angle up and left, passing a headwall on your left. Continue a full rope length and belay on one of many ledges.

P2. Climb a rather non-descript full rope length up small dihedrals and cracks, again keeping to the right of the arête.

P3. Short scramble to the top of the tower, belay using small trees at the top of the ridge. Great views back up the canyon.

To descend, the guide recommends scrambling off to the northeast and following the low angle slabs to a descent trail. Probably a better option than our descent. We followed the ridge to a point where we could scramble down to the west, and then followed the base of the rock back to the notch between the two towers.

Protection

Standard rack - Set of stoppers, hexes, and medium-sized cams.