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Peak Mountain 3

Danger Baby

FA Tom Helvie, Fan Yang; 2021
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This was the original line on the face. Tom bolted this route on hooks (although he said the first 5 were put up by someone else), and it is a spectacular line with stellar movement! Life simply got in the way and his family kept him busy, so he never got around to the redpoint and graciously gifted me the privilege for a FA. I must emphasize that he had done all the work to make this route climbable - all the cleaning and ensuring all the bolts are well placed, while I simply had to tie in for the fun.

Easy slab climbing for 2 bolts lands you on a ledge, and fire the 5.12 face section before a nice rest. Step right for the stellar 5.13 climbing that you've come for - big moves and a delicate finish...it's definitely not over until you've clipped the mussies! The anchor bolts are placed high to facilitate a tricky top-out for a proper ascent. It's bound to be a Gorge classic! As for difficulty, it feels like on the lower-end of 13b, but it could be a touch easier if you have the span of an orangutan?!

Tom wanted to name the route Danger Baby after his son Gavin, whose fearlessness is "always scaring the beegeezus out of us," quoting Ha Ngo.

Location

Look for an easy 2-bolt slab that leads to a ledge then some fixed draws. The route goes right higher up, where as Fight or Flight 12c goes left.

Protection

bolts