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Peak Mountain 3

Spin Doctor

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Description

The classic steep climb at Columns. Probably overhangs 60 ft but only gains 25 ft in elevation.

Pull a few easier moves to get off the ground and clip the first two bolts before getting into a sit-down rest. Collect your thoughts then move horizontally using lots of kneebars and roof climbing trickery to get to a good rest around the 6th bolt. Clip the 7th draw (black) then fire a bouldery crux before pulling on a few more jugs to reach the chains. Super classic.

Location

There are 3 routes that start at the very right side of the main cave at Columns. The leftmost of these is Spin Doctor (the other two are Hey Ladies and Megatron). Identify it by 5 chain draws, followed by two cable draws (6th is red, 7th is black).

Protection

8 fixed draws to a cold shut