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Peak Mountain 3

Velveeta

FA Unknown (please come forward and claim & name your route)
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Description

p1**** (5.10a, ≈130'): This pitch is a four star classic slab climb for the area and similar to subtly featured sections of nearby Power Dome with edges, dishes, and bumps. Climb the technical slab following the line of 8 or so bolts up to a small sloping ledge and two bolt anchor. The climbing is somewhat sustained and engaging although rests do appear to allow shaking out the calves and mental repose. In warm weather this pitch is challenging. The bolts get further apart as you go along, but this pitch is relatively generously bolted for this type of climbing in the area.

p2* (5.10a, ≈75'): Slight left on easy ground to a downward facing flake that takes finger sized cams before the first and only bolt on the small headwall directly above the anchor. A single reachy crux move (≈5.10a) comprises the difficulty of this pitch; the remainder of the climbing clocks in much easier. Belay at a two bolt anchor above a prominent ramping ledge. One of the anchor bolts is camouflaged with tan finish and has a single rap ring. The anchor is a bit difficult to see.

p3*** (5.10a, ≈150'): Climb directly up from the anchor on a short headwall past a few bolts that veer to the right. Careful not to fall before reaching bolt 1 as you could hit your belayer. The crux is a short series of insecure reachy moves on small holds. Surmount the headwall onto an easing angle and terrain and romp up and left to the two-bolt anchor of Swiss Cheese. The brief headwall is technically challenging and the reminder of the pitch much easier.

Note: In

A Climber's Guide to Courtright Reservoir & Vicinity

, the author, Dwight Kroll, states, "I took the liberty of naming this fine route as I could find no information on it. If this route is yours, please come forward and claim it."

Location

Rap to the base of Swiss Cheese Wall via the route Swiss Cheese, which is the only route equipped with rappel hardware. To climber's right of Swiss Cheese look for a two bolt anchor that marks the start of the climb and an obvious line of bolts up the thin slab.

Protection

Bolts (8-10 quickdraws). A single optional finger sized cam (≈0.5 BD) to protect easy start of p2.


Routes in Swiss Cheese Wall