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Peak Mountain 3

Mr. TrundleToes

FA (pitch 1) Chuck Hill, Dave Insley, 1990 FA (pitch 2) Jason Kieth, Chuck Hill, Dave Insley, 1992
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A wonderful route that eats gear and has near perfect rock, except for a death block on pitch 2.  The belays are comfortable and bolted.  An interesting note on the belays, pitch one has one leeper and a piton that fell out (we put it back in the crack with just our hands and a few blows with a carabiner), pitch two has two newer (1990) bolts and pitch three has beefy, new hangers.

Pitch one feels the most difficult but it climbs nicely and has solid rock and gear. 5.9

Pitch two is the longest pitch and climbs a series of wide to thin crack.  It has a loose and large block/flake in the chimney section of this pitch.  It can be daintly climbed around but don't sneeze or giggle since your belayer is below. 5.9

Pitch three is more great crack with lots of options and variety to a diving board belay. 5.8

Continue to the top and walk back to packs or rappel the route for a quicker return.

Location

The wall directly north of the Three Maids formation and easily located by a few large, healthy saguaros.  In fact, the largest of the saguaros can be seen from the main trail even before you began the trek up the canyon.

Protection

Cams up to #5, a #6 may be useful but not required. Rap the route.


Routes in Lost Dihedrals Area


  1. 1
    Mr. TrundleToes
    5.9
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