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Peak Mountain 3

Auburn Court

FA Mark Hammond, Dougald MacDonald
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is just a variation to

Auburn Lane

, but it turns a half-star route into 1.5 stars, with a second 5.10 crux and more good climbing.

Climb

Auburn Lane

through its crux finger crack (about 5.10c) and up the fun corner to a roof. The normal route climbs over this roof and ends abrubtly in a chossy gully. To do Auburn Court, crank over a bulge immediately left of the roof via hand jams (5.10a or b), then continue up the sweet hand crack past a tree. Hand traverse to the rright under a block, along a finger crack, to reach the top. This adds about 30-35 feet of high-quality climbing and takes the route right to the summit of Fin III.

By the way, you can do this entire route in one pitch with a 60-meter rope.

Protection

Standard Eldo rack.