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Peak Mountain 3

Choss To No Star Buttress

FA Sept 2015
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The buttress was originally named Choss-To-No-Star because it looked like a bunch of loose scary bullshit choss and zero star climbing; and the first ascent proved this to be at least 50% true. The FA was a true grounds up, heads up, 4 star chossineering adventure. However, under the dirt and death blocks, we found amazing crack systems and wild face climbing which brought me back numerous times with a variety of good friends establishing all sorts of variations. The routes have cleaned up a lot, and provide some really fun long moderate swell climbing to a great summit. Enjoy! ( with caution )

Location

From the wooden outhouse follow dirt road southeast past the camel’s head to a dead end / campsite. From here walk up the steep wash eventually heading up and right, following cairns, to the base of Choss-To-No-Star Buttress.

Protection

(1x) green c3 - #5 (2x) .4 - #2 (3x) .5 - .75 med- lrg stoppers helpful

(2x) 60m ropes


Routes in Camels Head Rincon


  1. 1
    Choss To No Star Buttress
    5.10c
    Trad