The Gold Card

The Gold Card Direct starts at the same place as

The Gold Card Indirect

and takes the striking line up the center of the main wall for a full 30 meter pitch. Climb through golden, bulletproof granite using a mix of crack and face technique. At mid-height, place a few bomber pieces, and then step up into the dihedral. Work out what parts of the crack to use for gear and what parts to use for your fingers. Consider fishing in a nut above your head before committing to the hard climbing. Smear, layback, and stem up the dihedral. Clip the fixed piton, and make a delicate move left before the roof.

This route was originally climbed in the headpoint style of rehearsing all of the moves and gear on top rope before getting on the sharp end.

Lower off fixed carabiners.

Standard double rack of cams and a good set of nuts (BD #8).