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Peak Mountain 3

Wasatch Harlem

FA Tyler Phillips, Troy Anderson, Pete VanSlooten, Brendan Brinkley, 2011
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Wasatch Harlem is a fun albeit mildly intimidating romp up one of the big slabs directly below the Fin.

Start in a dirty gully climbing loose-ish choss for about 40' until you can step right on the slab at the first bolt. Traversing shenanigans will get you to the 3rd bolt and the first crux, a bit of slab wizardry getting in and out of a scoop and up (or around) a blunt arete. Take a breath on the ledge and fire up the next steep slab section aiming for a fat chickenhead. Clip the 5th bolt and head up another blunt arete aiming for to a grungy-looking crack up a steeper face. Shoot up the patina to another bolt and the anchor up on the slab.

If you're an idiot and can't read a topo you can skip the finish and instead traverse right along the dirty crack to the 1st anchor of

Other Intentions

(not bad, bit gritty).

Location

Approach as for the main Fin routes: park as for Lizard Head and follow the Fin trail which skirts the base of the formation (now quite overgrown). Cross the talus / approach gully for

The Wave of Mutilation

then walk past the base of

Other Intentions

(clean low angle slab poking out of thick trees). The trail steepens along the base of the wall and reaches a flat brush-free spot below another nice looking slab guarded by a steep gully.

Protection

5 or 6 bolts and a single set up to a #2 (only a couple pieces needed, lots of options, I didn't place any nuts). Runners helpful to mitigate rope drag. 70m mandatory for lowering, a 60m would leave you to downclimb a good chunk of the gully.