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Peak Mountain 3

Looking For Forrest

FA Astraus, Peters
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Every observant climber traveling to sport climbing wonderland of QC has gawked at this tower.  Gawk no more, Looking For Forrest is your ticket to the top of this behemoth. With some of the most friable, extra friable and extremely friable rock west of the Mississippi don't be surprised to have to wait your turn.  But wait, there is more...the 45 year (+) original anchors still can be used to rappel the route.We first wandered out here after talking with a fellow that did the second ascent in the 1970's.  Covid-19 came along and the area was closed.  We re-visited the route yesterday with the intention of climbing the original Bill Forrest route.  Our description mentioned  only one bolt.Three new bolts were present and lead the way over to the original route.  We misread the description and continued straight above the third bolt and into a rotten crack.  Continue up crack to mini-roof and make delicate steps right and continue traversing until you can join the main crack system.  Easy climbing takes you to the summit.  We cleared a few hundred pounds of rock off the traverse but it is still dusty and crusty.*There is a bolt to the left of rotten crack but was only hand tightened, someone forgot a wrench.*A fall would be a bad idea on this route.

Location

Big tower above Boyce Thompson Arboretum.  45 min. to hour approach from Picket Post parking area.  Route begins at saddle and follows original (now upgraded) Forrest line but instead of a continued traverse at third bolt continues straight up before traversing.

Protection

4 bolts, gear to #5, two ropes.


Routes in Picket Post Mountain


  1. 2
    Looking For Forrest
    5.8+
    Trad