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Peak Mountain 3

Lava Lightning

FA 2015, Ney Grant and Betsy Grant
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is at S1 on the aerial photo. We went pretty much went straight up the slab at the bottom (we placed two bolts), then into a thin crack which became harder (crux is 20 feet up the crack), then easier higher up.

There was an old anchor on top, likely for the large chimney / crack to the right of our route. I put in a new two bolt ringed anchor at the top of this route.

We didn't walk off, but this is such a large bulky formation that it seems possible. So also possible to scramble up and use top anchors for a top rope for this and the much harder roof climb to the left.

Location

Steep east face of large spire.  From Elephant Head arch, head uphill and pass one big bulky broken-up spire then you'll see this one.

GPS 40.575 -119.992

Protection

Two bolts then trad gear


Routes in "Lava Lightning" Spire