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Peak Mountain 3

Beyond the Valley of the Putterman

FA Cam Burns, Mike Baker & Jesse Harvey on Dec 13, 1997
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The route climbs the southeast ridge. We chose to do it as two short pitches.

P1: A few well protected moves on good rock get you established on the ridge. Follow it (with very little available protection) to the obvious sub-summit. The crux is a couple of 5.8 moves on questionable rock/mud. A fall here would be very ugly - you'd pendulum along the side of the tower and quite possibly hit the ground. [Note: This route is listed as 5.8 A1 in Desert Rock III and the recommended gear includes a piton and a Lost Arrow. I suspect the first ascent party may have nailed a couple of pieces into the seams in the vicinity of this crux.] Past the crux tackle a steep bit past a good pin, pulling onto the sub-summit with the help of an old quarter inch bolt protruding from the rock farther than you might like.

The sub-summit has a good pin which, along with the less inspiring old bolt, makes for a reasonable belay. Use the pin (with leaver biner) to lower or rappel into the small notch between the sub-summit and the true summit. An anchor can be constructed in the notch from hand sized cams.

P2: Aid past 2 bolts and a pin to a good two bolt anchor just below the summit. The first bolt is an old quarter incher and hangerless. The pin above it is in pretty good shape and the final bolt is bomber.

To descend do a single rope rappel down the west side. Then empty the mud out of your shoes.

Location

The route follows the obvious southeast ridge.

Protection

Not much. SIngle set of cams from BD 0.5 to 3. A rivet hanger or a nut. Aiders. Pitons and Lost Arrows?


Routes in Putterman's Pile


  1. 1
    Beyond the Valley of the Putterman
    5.8
    Trad · Aid