- Edit (TBD)
Description
I put this route together because I wanted to make something that featured the other side of the giant pointed roof above The Flake. I discovered the left side a few years ago while working its length and up the arête - similar to Barber’s Roof. There’s a huge pocket that I could put both my hands into as I moved out to the point. It was only later when I was setting up for another climb did I look over and see that it looked like an eye and that roof could be the head of a whale. The climb as a whole is pretty killer taking into account the Africa Wall part which is sparse to begin with and the traverse out and up the whale head arête. Hence the name Killer Whale.
Your start may vary but I like to tackle the little overhanging wall at the bottom vs. the easier approach to the ledge below Africa. Once there stay on the far right of Africa Wall. Top out there and proceed up to the whale head. Move your hands out and into the eye while anchoring your feet below. With your right hand, reach out and grab the nose. Break your feet loose, find new feet, and dead point up higher with your right. Once locked in high, pull up, get your left foot in the eye and stand up. Now up and over. Just like that.
Location
Main Wall.
Protection
TR for now. Same anchors as The Flake but must be placed over the right side edge or redirected.